
As February draws to a close and the first hints of warmer weather begin to drift across the Dallas-Fort Worth area, North Texas homeowners face a familiar and exciting challenge: transitioning their landscapes from winter dormancy into spring vitality. This window — roughly late February through mid-March — is one of the most important times of year for your lawn, trees, and garden beds. What you do right now sets the tone for the entire growing season ahead.
Assess What Winter Left Behind
Before reaching for a single tool, take a walk around your property with fresh eyes. North Texas winters are unpredictable — one year brings mild temperatures and light frosts, the next delivers an ice storm or a hard freeze. This past season may have left behind broken branches, frost-heaved plants, root damage, or large patches of turf that didn’t survive the cold.
Look closely at your St. Augustine, Bermuda, or Zoysia grass. Brown turf at this time of year isn’t necessarily dead — most warm-season grasses are simply dormant. However, you may notice areas that look gray or matted rather than tan and upright. Those sections may need overseeding or sod repair once temperatures consistently reach the mid-60s.
Check your trees and large shrubs for storm damage, split limbs, or signs of disease. Winter is tough on even well-established plants, and unaddressed damage can invite pests and fungal problems as the weather warms.
Hold Off on Pruning — But Not for Everything
Timing is everything when it comes to late-winter pruning in North Texas. The general rule is to wait until after the last frost before cutting back freeze-damaged shrubs and perennials. In the DFW area, the average last frost date falls between mid-February and mid-March, so patience pays off. Cutting back too early can expose tender new growth to a cold snap.
That said, late winter is actually the ideal time to prune certain plants. Now is the right moment to trim crepe myrtles — though keep in mind that “crepe murder” (severe topping) is never recommended. A light shaping to remove crossing branches and spent seed heads is all that’s needed. This is also the time to prune roses, removing dead canes and shaping them before new buds emerge.
Oak trees, however, are the exception. Due to the risk of oak wilt — a devastating fungal disease spread by beetles — avoid pruning oaks from February through June unless absolutely necessary. If you must make cuts, seal them immediately with a pruning sealant.
Lawn Care: Fertilization Timing Matters
One of the most common mistakes North Texas homeowners make is fertilizing too early. Applying fertilizer to dormant grass pushes nutrient-hungry weeds while your turf isn’t yet able to take advantage of the boost. Wait until your grass shows consistent active green growth — usually late March to early April — before applying a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.
In the meantime, late February is the perfect time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to get ahead of summer weeds like crabgrass and goosegrass. The window for pre-emergent application is tied to soil temperature; once soil temps reach 55°F consistently, weed seeds begin to germinate. Most of North Texas hits this threshold in early spring, so applying now gives your lawn a strong defensive advantage.
Refresh Your Beds and Borders
End of winter is also the right time to refresh your landscape beds before the spring planting rush. Pull any winter weeds that have taken hold, edge your bed borders cleanly, and top off your mulch. A fresh 2-to-3-inch layer of mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds throughout the hot Texas summer ahead.
If you’re planning to add color annuals or summer perennials, hold off on planting until after your last frost date has passed. But now is the time to plan, design, and source your plants so you’re ready to move quickly when the weather cooperates.
Call in the Professionals
End-of-winter landscape care in North Texas requires local knowledge and careful timing. At Fallas Landscape, we understand the unique growing conditions of the DFW area and can help you get ahead of the season with professional pruning, pre-emergent treatments, bed preparation, and custom lawn care programs designed for our regional climate.
Don’t wait for spring to sneak up on you. Contact Fallas Landscape today to schedule a consultation and make this your best-looking lawn and garden year yet.





Hydrangeas are the rock stars of North Texas gardens, bringing lush blooms and vibrant color to yards in The Colony, Little Elm, Frisco, and beyond. At Fallas Landscape, we’ve helped countless clients maintain these showstoppers, and one of the most critical tasks for keeping hydrangeas healthy is proper trimming. With our unique North Texas climate—hot summers, mild winters, and the occasional surprise freeze—trimming hydrangeas requires a bit of know-how to ensure they thrive year after year. This guide breaks down why, when, and how to trim hydrangeas, with practical tips to keep your garden blooming beautifully.
Knowing your hydrangea type is crucial because trimming practices differ based on whether they bloom on old or new wood.
Timing depends on your hydrangea’s bloom cycle and North Texas weather:
Here’s a step-by-step guide for each hydrangea type:
Lantana: Renowned for its vibrant clusters of flowers in fiery or pastel shades, lantana tolerates scorching sun and drought like a champ. Many varieties persist through light frost, and butterfly and bee visitors will flock to their blooms.
Vinca (Periwinkle): A superstar with heat and drought resistance, vinca keeps blooming in intense sun and thrives in both containers and garden beds with minimal maintenance. Available in pinks, roses, purples, and whites, it keeps going strong until a hard freeze.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia): These sunny-yellow perennials are a drought-tolerant classic. They flower from midsummer into fall, attracting bees and butterflies while standing up to heavy clay soils.
Fall Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium): With their mounds of lavender blooms, fall asters create a dramatic purple haze across landscapes when most summer flowers are done. They’re tough, adaptable, and provide crucial nectar for pollinators—especially migrating monarchs.
Turk’s Cap: These plants feature quirky, hibiscus-like red flowers, perform well in sun or part shade, and are incredibly adaptable—perfect for under trees or along borders.
Potted plants offer unmatched flexibility compared to traditional in-ground gardening. They allow you to experiment with color, texture, and placement without committing to permanent changes. Containers are perfect for small spaces, patios, or areas with poor soil quality, making them ideal for North Texas lawns that may face challenges like clay-heavy soil or intense summer heat. Plus, potted plants are portable, letting you rearrange your design seasonally or for special occasions.
The key to a colorful lawn is selecting plants that thrive in our region’s climate. North Texas experiences hot summers, occasional freezes, and varying soil conditions, so choosing hardy, adaptable species is essential. Here are some top picks for potted plants and flowers that add color and withstand local conditions:
To create a cohesive and colorful lawn, think about design principles like balance, scale, and contrast. Here are some tips to get started:
Where you place your potted plants is just as important as what you plant. Consider these ideas to enhance your lawn’s appeal:
The Desert Willow, despite its name, isn’t a true willow but a stunning native that flourishes in North Texas’s heat and drought-prone conditions. This small tree grows 15-30 feet tall at a rate of 1-2 feet per year, making it a fantastic choice for smaller yards or as a focal point in xeriscaping. Its long, narrow leaves and vibrant pink to purple flowers bloom from spring to fall, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. Desert Willows thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, requiring minimal water once established.
The Green Ash is a hardy, fast-growing tree that can reach 60-70 feet tall, with a growth rate of 2-4 feet per year. Its expansive canopy provides ample shade, making it perfect for large yards or as a street tree. Native to Texas, it adapts to various soil types, including the clay-heavy soils common in North Texas. Its leaves turn a golden yellow in fall, adding seasonal charm. However, be mindful of potential pest issues like the emerald ash borer.
Known for its striking white and tan exfoliating bark, the American Sycamore is a majestic, fast-growing tree that can grow 3-6 feet per year, reaching heights of 70 feet or more. Its broad leaves create dense shade, ideal for cooling homes and yards. This tree prefers moist, well-drained soils but can adapt to North Texas’s variable conditions with proper care. Its unique bark adds year-round visual interest, especially in winter.
Crape Myrtles are a North Texas favorite, known for their vibrant summer blooms in shades of pink, purple, red, and white. Growing 1-3 feet per year, they can reach 15-30 feet, depending on the variety. Their colorful fall foliage and smooth, peeling bark add multi-seasonal appeal. These trees are drought-tolerant once established and thrive in full sun, making them ideal for borders or as ornamental centerpieces.
The Nuttall Oak is one of the fastest-growing oaks, adding 2-3 feet per year and reaching 40-60 feet at maturity. Its broad, leafy canopy provides excellent shade, and its vibrant red fall foliage is a showstopper. Native to Texas, it’s well-suited to the region’s clay soils and hot summers. This tree also supports local wildlife, producing acorns that attract squirrels and deer.
Ferns are a classic choice for shade gardens, and in North Texas, Holly Fern (Cyrtomium falcatum) and Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosorba) are standout performers. Holly Ferns feature glossy, dark green fronds that add a polished look to shaded beds. Autumn Ferns bring a touch of seasonal color with fronds that emerge coppery-red before maturing to green. Both are drought-tolerant once established and thrive in well-drained, organic-rich soil. Plant them under trees or along shaded walkways for a soft, woodland vibe. Tip: Mulch around ferns to retain moisture and keep roots cool during hot Texas summers.
Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is a fantastic groundcover for shady spots. Its low-growing, spreading habit makes it ideal for filling in bare areas under trees or shrubs. Varieties like ‘Burgundy Glow’ offer striking foliage in shades of green, purple, and cream, with spikes of blue flowers in spring. Ajuga is tough, tolerating both shade and the occasional drought, but it prefers moist, well-drained soil. Use it to create a carpet-like effect in your garden. Tip: Avoid planting Ajuga in areas with heavy foot traffic, as it’s not as durable as grass.
Hostas are beloved for their lush foliage and ability to brighten shady spots. With varieties ranging from deep green to variegated patterns, they offer endless options for texture and color. Hostas prefer rich, moist soil and do best in partial to full shade, making them perfect for North Texas gardens under tree canopies or along shaded borders. Tip: Protect hostas from slugs and snails by using organic deterrents like crushed eggshells or diatomaceous earth.
For a pop of color in shaded areas, Caladiums are hard to beat. Their heart-shaped leaves come in vibrant combinations of pink, white, red, and green, adding a tropical flair to North Texas gardens. Caladiums thrive in warm, humid conditions and prefer well-drained soil. They’re typically grown as annuals in North Texas, as they’re sensitive to cold, but you can dig up the tubers in fall to replant next spring. Tip: Pair Caladiums with ferns or hostas for a layered, textured look.
Columbine is a delicate perennial that brings charm to shaded gardens with its nodding, bell-shaped flowers. Native varieties like Aquilegia canadensis are particularly well-suited to North Texas, blooming in spring with red and yellow flowers that attract pollinators. Columbine prefers partial shade and well-drained soil, and it self-seeds readily, creating a naturalized look over time. Tip: Deadhead spent flowers to extend blooming and prevent excessive self-seeding.